Alpine Style

Mt. Alberta North Face The climb: We soloed the shrund (which was easy), and simulclimbed to the traverse ledge where we unroped. After the bulk of the icefield, we angled right and traversed below a rib of the yellow band and found short WI 3 steps through it, that led to the base of the headwall, and a obvious natural system of grooves and corners. Here we roped up and swapped leads to the summit. The headwall pitches are described as follows: Pitch 1 - 25m: up the left facing corner (shattered rock) and slightly right to a small stance before the next corner... M6

Chris Brazeau on the 5.11 crux of a new route on the North Face of Mt. Alberta.

Jia Condon is still charging after 28 hours on the go, on the first "in a push" ascent of The Direct South Buttress of Mt. Tiedeman. The round trip camp-to-camp would take 39 hours in total, and would require over 2200 m of climbing.