First Ascent

Devil's Thumb

Tags: Posted on November 02, 2007
Four years ago on an expedition to make the first ascent of the nearby Oasis Peak, Dieter Klose planted a seed: the complete traverse of the Witches Tits, Cats Ears and Devils Thumb. This seed grew into a dream that blossomed into reality in July, when Andre Ike and I were deposited below the east ridge of the Thumb by helicopter. A week of mostly bad weather followed, with just enough sun to advance a camp and scope the logistics of our mission. Finally the skies cleared, and we set off with three days of food and high hopes for the splitter, white granite we had seen from the heli.

Choktoi Glacier 2006

Tags: Posted on October 31, 2007

Near the end of June 2006, Jeff Relph and I found ourselves at 6800 meters getting thoroughly abused by vicious snow and avalanches on a new-route attempt on the southeast buttress of the Ogre (7285m). We made it down safely, but there was not enough time for a second attempt.

Zig Zag - Multi Pitch Sport-Climbing+ on Yamnuska

Tags: Posted on October 30, 2007

Zig Zag: 5.12-, 250m

First ascent: Sean Isaac and Jon Walsh 2006

-8 pitches: .10b, 11c, 10b, 10a, 10a, 11b, 12a, 11a **grades are not confirmed**

-Rack: 12 draws, a few medium to large stoppers, and a single set of camelots from #.3 to #2

-The start is just left of red shirt and cross it halfway up the first pitch. From here, you can more or less follow the bolts and natural features without getting lost. The climb is mostly bolted but there are about 10 - 12 gear placements in total. More beta and photos to come soon...

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