Alpine Style

The highlight of the summer was projecting a 15 pitch route in the Bugaboos with Chris Brazeau, that contains such sustained and high quality climbing, it's destined to be a classic.  Our unnamed route contains about 50 percent new terrain, and the rest is a combination of aid lines.  After many hours of labor, the cracks were cleaned, and all the belays were bolted rappel stations.  We also added a total of 12 bolts for protection purposes, and one pitch is entirely bolt protected!  Unusual for a route of this type.  All the protection bolts but one, were placed on rappel after A3 leads, serious run-outs, and some top-roping to figure out if there were enough features for free-climbing the aid sections.  Sure enough all the moves came together and all but two pitches have been red-pointed.  The climbing is amazingly sustained between mid 5.10 and mid 5.11, with just a few harder cruxes.    Only two pitches are left to red-point and they're both down to one fall each, and we look forward to freeing them next summer.  Thanks to a couple of guest appearances, I have the following images as a sneak preview.